Dates Visited: March 15 – 18, 2019
Introduction
As a Vietnamese-American, the last time I visited Vietnam was 2009 – in a very different geo-political era and stage of life for me. Back in 2009, the iPhone was still relatively new and only limited populations had access to it. We were only on 3G networks. Social media was limited to mainly MySpace and Facebook although Twitter begun catching up too. Obama had just taken office and the country is recovering from the Great Recession. Meanwhile, a pandemic of 2009 H1N1 (“swine flu”) raged on across the world. I was in 5th grade at the time and in general, life was different.
After visiting Siem Reap, the next stop on this weekend trip would be Vietnam’s capital city Hanoi. Having not been back in a decade, I was sure many things have changed and of course, I was right. Smartphones, social media, Grab, and more are ubiquitous in a continuously modernizing society yet some of my favorite things are still there.
Arriving
Noi Bai International Airport (HAN)
I would not recommend VietJet Air. On a short one-hour flight from Siem Reap, it was bearable but definitely on the lower-end of airlines, even among budget airlines. Anyways, a quick hop across the peninsula and I landed on-time at Hanoi’s Noi Bai airport. The airport is located 45 minutes outside the city by car and there is no rail or efficient public transportation service to downtown. I recommend hiring a transfer service such as Hanoi Transfer Service – a friendly driver was waiting for me with my name on a sign by the airport exit.
Immigration/Customs
Vietnam requires visas for most foreigners, with electronic e-visa options available for U.S. passport holders . To my knowledge, the e-visa is single entry, lasts one year, costs $25USD and can be done within 3 days online. You are then emailed a PDF document to print and bring with your passport. Traditional paper visas through your local consulate/embassy are also possible albeit at a higher price. If you meet certain conditions, you could also apply for a 5-year visa exemption certificate.
Immigration lines were reasonable at 8PM and I was out within the hour with no hassle or delays.
Lounges
There are two Priority Pass accessible lounges at HAN – one for domestic departures in Terminal 1 and one for international departures in Terminal 2. I visited Terminal 2’s Song Hong Business lounge on my way out of Vietnam. Food options were overwhelmingly local cuisine which is always a plus. Quality of food and beverage was definitely much better than I expected for an airport lounge in Vietnam. Available food ranged from traditional Vietnamese stir-fry, spring rolls, fresh fruit, bao, desserts to even salted duck eggs. Beverages were run of the mill alcohol and soft drink choices. The lounge also has a great view of departing aircraft.
Currency
Who wants to be a millionaire? Well, in Vietnam you can! The Vietnam Dong (VND) comes in denominations of 10,20,50,100,200, and 500 thousand. And there are no coins in use. While these wildly inflated denominations may seem scary, 1 US dollar is approximately 23 thousand dong and therefore the 500 thousand dong banknote is worth just over $20USD. All you need is $43 USD to be a millionaire in Vietnam Dong.
Currency exchanges and ATMs are available in the airport and throughout the city. The country is still predominantly cash-based so unless you are taking a Grab, shopping in a mall or dining at high-end restaurants, expect to pay cash in VND.
Taxis/Rideshare/Local Transportation
Your best friend in Vietnam as in any Southeast Asian nation will be Grab. Imagine Uber but for Southeast Asia. There are some alternatives such as Gojek but I have not tried those. Grab offers GrabBike and GrabCar – GrabCar is your typical ride-share service with a driver coming to pick you up in a car whereas GrabBike is a motorbike service with you riding on the back of a motorbike – sounds scary but after your first time trying it, you’ll love it! Prices for both services are extremely cheap to Western standards (<$1.5USD), especially GrabBike. Grab accepts cash (VND) to the driver or you can use a Visa/Mastercard in-app to pay cashless.
Marked taxis are also readily available on the streets of Hanoi but cost more than Grab and you may run into price haggling/language barrier issues. They generally have meters, but make sure it is on before the ride starts. Taxis accept credit cards and cash. Much better to just use Grab in my opinion.
SIM Cards/Wi-Fi
The airport kiosks sell Vinaphone/Mobifone SIM cards that cost about $11 USD (crazy-high price) or you could wait until you get to city center and purchase for a fraction ($4-5USD) of the price. 4G service is on par with neighboring Southeast Asian countries and there seems to be no major difference between Vinaphone, Mobifone, or Viettel in my experience. Data plans can be refilled using scratch pin cards and WiFi is generally available in malls, major restaurants, and shops. While social media is not censored, be aware that Internet activity is monitored for political/sensitive topics.
Sightseeing
Hanoi Train Street
You’ve probably seen the crazy Instagram photos of this place – a residential street in Vietnam with a train track you can pose on and a massive train that runs through it each day. Probably Hanoi’s most famous tourist hot spot, this is a residential neighborhood turned tourist sight – locals live on both sides of the dangerous train tracks often running little cafes and restaurants to cater to foreign tourists coming for their Instagram photo shoots and train sightings. Each day at certain times, a train zips by the area with little warning as onlookers gaze.
During my visit, Train Street was still alive and well but towards the end of 2019, the authorities decided to shut down the track area for safety after a few close-calls. I can see why though as it is extremely dangerous for those not paying attention as a massive train zips by. I’m not sure what the situation is on the ground right now but definitely visit if the area is still available – makes for amazing Instagram photos. I hear that the train street is still accessible if you buy drinks at a cafe and stay off the tracks though.
Hoan Kiem Lake
At night, this area comes to life with both tourists and locals out for a stroll to see the lake and the pretty lights. This is the “tourist hub” though so always be mindful for scams, pickpockets, and the like. Otherwise, enjoy one of Hanoi’s central tourist attractions.
Hoa Lo Prison
This was a site for American prisoners of war during the Vietnam War. For history buffs, a good opportunity to see artifacts from wartime Vietnam. Nominal entry fee and bilingual exhibitions. John McCain was imprisoned here during his POW time.
Old French Quarter
This is one of the most popular districts of Hanoi with most nightlife activities centered around here. If you’re looking for a night out, I would recommend 1900 Club Hanoi and Hero Club. Cover and entry fees vary night to night and dress code is not strictly enforced but try to look neat and put together.
Food/Drink
Bun Cha Huong Lien
Made famous by Anthony Bourdain and Barack Obama’s visit in 2016, I’ve been fixated on visiting this bun cha establishment for years. Bun cha is one of the many Vietnamese dishes that compared to pho or banh mi did not get much fame or recognition in the West. Bun Cha is easily described as a pork meatball with cold noodles dish. I can tell you, it is very delicious and Bun Cha Huong Lien, despite the fame and lines out the door serves up a delicious rendition. Come here and be prepared for a chaotic scene for world leader approved dining. If you’re lucky, you’ll get the table I did – right next to the famous immortalized Obama/Bourdain plexiglass covered table. Cash only and order the Obama Combo.
Banh Mi 25
Wake up after a night out and crave a hangover remedy? Get yourself to Banh Mi 25 for a delicious breakfast sandwich for under $2USD. Cash only and there is seating area within the restaurant.
Pho Gia Truyen @ 49 Bat Dan
One of the more popular pho places in Hanoi frequented by both tourists and locals alike – they open only for dinner and be prepared to queue for a bit before enjoying your North Vietnamese style pho. Props to those who can tell the difference between a Northern and Southern pho bowl. Cash only.
Pho Cuon Huong Mai
A Hanoi specialty, pho cuon is a rice roll with beef dish made from the same type of noodles often found in pho noodle soup. Pho Cuon Huong Mai is famous for this dish and serves it out by the dozen. They have multiple locations as it is a chain but taste should be consistent across the board. Cash only.
Banh Cuon Ky Dong
After almost five hours at the Sofitel photo shoot, I needed a late-night dinner and Banh Cuon Ky Dong was still open around 11PM. This family-run establishment dishes out fresh hot steaming plates of Vietnamese rice noodle rolls (banh cuon) and spring gio (nem ran / cha gio) . The friendly owners are a husband-wife couple who can speak both English and Vietnamese and were very happy to share with me how they prepare each plate of banh cuon. Cash only.
CONG Ca Phe
Need a break from the heat and walking? Enjoy a traditional Vietnamese iced coffee (ca phe sua da) at CONG Ca Phe cafe – this is a well known Vietnamese coffeehouse chain with locations in Vietnam and abroad and their preparation of ca phe sua da is one of my favorites. Cash only and go to the one by the church for a nice view from the 2nd floor balcony.
Accommodation
AirBNB in Old French Quarter
I stayed in a well-priced spacious and clean loft style AirBNB in the French Quarter – with 2 bathrooms, 2 floors and 3 beds this is ample space for 2 or 3 people each getting their own beds and more if you double up on sharing beds. Security is very tight with multiple layers of locks and access control and the location is in a quiet residential neighborhood. Since it was just me and another friend traveling, this was more than enough space for us to stretch out and relax in.
Sofitel Metropole Hotel
One of the most posh and luxurious hotels in Hanoi – I didn’t stay here but their outdoor garden and facilities were beautiful and a good photo shoot location. A month before my visit, Donald Trump and Kim Jong-Un held their bilateral summit here. A good choice for a splurge hotel if that’s what you are looking for.
