Dates Visited: March 18, 2023 – March 26, 2023 (during Ramadan 2023)
Introduction: Tunisia was my second country in North Africa (after Egypt) and it was a pleasant surprise. Here, there are significantly fewer cons, cheats, and scams compared to a tourist saturated country like Egypt. There are much fewer foreign tourists in Tunisia, and compared to the souks of Cairo – I did not feel constantly under threat of being scammed or coerced to purchase things. I would say Tunisia is now my favorite country of North Africa. Tunisia’s inbound tourism is still recovering from the pandemic most recently but also the events of the 2015 terror attacks and 2011 revolution. This is visible when you walk around cities like Sousse that where grand resorts once full of European tourists are now closed and abandoned. It almost felt like walking around Pripyat. In Tunis, you see very few foreign tourists – mostly concentrated around Carthage or Sidi Bou Said. If you’re looking for a quiet hidden gem in North Africa free of the scams and harassment that plagues Egypt and Morocco, consider visiting Tunisia. Overall, I had a great experience in Tunisia and would recommend it to a traveler visiting this region.
Arriving
Tunis-Carthage International Airport (TUN)
This is the main international gateway into Tunisia with flights to continental Europe, nearby countries in Africa and Middle East hubs. There are seasonal flights that also connect Canada to Tunisia. In terms of facilities, this airport is unremarkable. There are only a handful of gates and concessions with limited lounge options. The seating areas are crowded, uncomfortable, and lack modern amenities. Overall, not a remarkable or memorable airport.
Arrival Immigration/Customs
Tunisia was visa-free for U.S. passports and the arrival passport control process was simple and quick. Officers have a tendency to stamp the back pages of your passport at this airport I’ve noticed. After getting stamped into the country, your hand baggage undergoes a security screening and you walk through a metal detector. After passing this, you will have an opportunity to pick up a free Orange SIM card near baggage claim. This SIM card has no value yet though and must be loaded with balance at an Orange shop after exiting customs.
Currency
Tunisia is still very much a cash-based economy. The primary currency used is the Tunisian dinar (TND) which is subdivided into 1000 “cents”. The banknotes come in denominations of 5 (5000) dinars, 10 (10000) dinars, 20 (20000) dinars, and the most rare banknote is the 50 (50000 dinars). In everyday use, the 10 dinar and 20 dinar note is most common. For denominations of 5 dinars or less, coins are frequently used. I suggest bringing a coin wallet to Tunisia. I never encountered the large 50 dinar banknote during my time there. Exchanging foreign currency to dinars is easy and can be done at the airport, at your hotel front desk or at exchange shops around town. Passport is required as they will give you a bank exchange receipt that will be required to change back dinars to foreign currency on your departure.
The TND is a closed currency and can not be obtained outside Tunisia. It is apparently a criminal offense to import or export the Tunisian dinars and customs does check on departure to make sure you are not exporting any. I even saw one passenger who mistakenly brought Tunisian dinars with her past customs and attempted to use it to buy food at an airport shop. Customs police were called and she was promptly detained. They will also interview departing passengers to see if you are carrying any dinars. Wallet checks are not unheard of.
Credit cards (Visa/MasterCard) are accepted albeit only at large hotels, and few restaurants. Taxis do not accept credit card and the Bolt ride-sharing app does not accept credit card. Cash is king in Tunisia.
SIM card/Wi-Fi/Internet
There are two main cellular phone carriers in Tunisia – Orange and Ooredoo. Both seem to be equal in pricing and service and can be purchased on arrival at the airport. Orange gives out free SIM cards in the baggage claim area. Prices are reasonable for data – US$10 for 25GB and the accounts can be refilled on the “My Orange”/”My Ooredoo” app or at a shop. Connection speeds were good and coverage in cities was adequate. WiFi is also available at large shops, restaurants, and hotels. I had no difficulties with accessing the Internet in Tunisia.
Departure
The departure process was a bit chaotic for some airlines (EgyptAir) but orderly for others (ITA, Lufthansa) – so your luck may vary here.
Remember to spend all/exchange back all of your Tunisian dinars before going through immigration control on departure, it’s apparently illegal to export the currency. This rule is enforced. There are a dozen different exchange counters in the departure area that can exchange your dinars to USD/EUR/GBP etc as long as you have a bank receipt from your original transaction. It does not need to be the same bank/same brand as the counter you’re using to exchange the currency back.
After passing through customs, all airport shops take USD/Euros and will provide change in Euros from when I can tell.
There are multiple security screening checkpoints as typical in this part of the world so budget extra time.
The Priority Pass lounges at this airport are below average with unappealing food options. I would recommend to skip them.
NOTE ABOUT VISITING DURING RAMADAN
I would not advise visiting during Ramadan, my last three days in country fell on Ramadan and many stores were closed. Restaurants did not serve food or drink during the day and the streets were mostly empty. Near the sunset iftar hours, it was impossible to find a taxi. I would advise that you plan your trip to be before or after Ramadan days.
TAXIS/RIDESHARE SERVICES (BOLT)
Bolt is the primary ridesharing app to be used in Tunisia with service available in Tunis and Sousse. There are other apps available but I did not try them. Bolt was sufficient for my needs but the price is higher than a hailed meter taxi because of convenience fees Bolt adds. The vehicles you get on Bolt are the same ones as normal taxis though. Drivers in Tunisia generally do not speak English, since French and Arabic are primary languages. All payment must be made in cash – credit card is not accepted. I did not have any issues with drivers wanting more payment than the price listed by the app. However, if you wish to save an inconsequential amount of money and speak enough French or Arabic, you can hail a taxi from the street and request the driver to use the meter instead.
Bolts are allowed to pick up at the airport at a parking lot about 5-7 minute walk from the exit door. I took a Bolt to get to my Airbnb in Sidi Bou Said from the airport. Note that if you visit during Ramadan, it will be impossible to find a Bolt or a taxi during the time of the fast breaking (iftar) which is usually around 6:30PM/sunset. Plan accordingly if you are out during this time since you may be stranded for 30-45 minutes while drivers break the fast.
A note on driving in Tunisia – it’s not for the faint of heart. Lane lines are a mere suggestion here and drivers often drive between two lanes of a highway. They also speed excessively (160km/h) and locals do not use seat belts. One taxi driver from Bolt was watching TikToks while driving on the highway. Cars generally do not yield to pedestrians either so be mindful when crossing the street.
TRAINS
I would not recommend taking the train for intercity travel in Tunisia because the trains are outdated, uncomfortable, disorganized, and late. I tried the train for a Tunis- Sousse ride (two hour trip) and the train was over an hour late. When the train arrived, there was no organized boarding as everyone bum rushed the train for seats. Despite having assigned seats on tickets, there was no regard for this. The trains were also not air conditioned nor comfortable, even in first class. Luggage racks are also dilapidated and missing shelves which poses a safety risk to the passengers sitting below baggage. In short, avoid the train in Tunisia.
SHARED TAXIS/LOUAGES
As an alternative to trains for inter city travel, louages (Tunisian shared taxi vans) are an economical and efficient way to get around. Through the louage network, you can reach almost any other major city in Tunisia (El Jem, Sousse, Kairouan, Monastir, Tunis, Bizerte, etc) These are vans that carry 8-10 passengers from one city to another and the average fare ranges between US$2 and US$7 per person depending on destination. Prices are fixed and posted on station boards. In most stations, there is a ticket counter to purchase tickets but in smaller cities, you will pay the driver directly. There are no online tickets and only cash is accepted. These vans leave when it is full or when all seats have been paid for. You can pay for an extra seat for more space/for the van to leave sooner.
Each major city in Tunis has at least one louage station that will connect it to every other city. In Tunis and Sousse, there are multiple louage stations and depending on your final destination, you have to be at the correct louage station. The best thing to do is ask around and make sure the station serves your destination. For example in Tunis, the Moncef Bay station serves Sousse and all points south but not Bizerte which is in the northern side of the country. For Bizerte, you have to go to the Bab Saadoun louage station. Louage stations tend to be organized chaos with many men shouting city names at you, so when in doubt, ask someone and they will point you in the right direction. Drivers are friendly and helpful but generally they do not speak English.
These are “relatively” comfortable vans but lack air conditioning and seat belts. The front seat has a seat belt but is seldom used – it seems that Tunisians do not believe in seat belts. I also noticed that groups of the same gender are seated next to each other so there were no men sitting next to women vice versa on the vehicle.
DRIVER
If you are in need of a private driver, consult Issam on WhatsApp at +216 94 993 922
SIGHTSEEING
Place du Government (Government Square) – Tunis
This is a quick photo stop outside the Ministry of Defense where you can see monuments built by the Tunisian government.
Sidi Bou Said neighborhood of Tunis
This area closely resembles Santorini in appearance, it’s a touristy neighborhood of Tunis with souvenir shops, cafes with postcard views, and overall chill Mediterranean vibes. It’s a pretty small area though so plan only a couple of hours to see all of this. Nice place for photography.
Tunis Medina
The heart of the old city, a lot of restaurants and small shops here. It’s a very complicated layout so use Google Maps and expect to get lost. There are some scams here like the rooftop terrace scam or the handicraft festival scam but nothing as bad as Egypt. Best to not go anywhere with any strangers no matter how enticing the offer is.
Bab el Bhar/Porte de France – marks the separatrion between the medina of Tunis and the modern city
A photo spot on the Avenue Habib B. next to the Hotel Royal Victoria which used to be the British consulate until 2004. You see a separation in Tunis between the modern European style city and the more traditional North African medina here. All taxi drivers know this area as Porte de France.
Avenue Habib Borugiba
Central throughfare of the city, nice area to walk around and eat gelato and people watch. It runs between the clocktower and Porte de France.
Clocktower at Avenue Habib Borugiba
Photo spot on the other end of the Avenue – nice relaxation area with fountains that Tunisians like to hang around. Be mindful there are government buildings around here so be careful where you point your camera to avoid misunderstandings.
Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul and St Olivia of Palermo
Located along the Avenue H.B – this is a cathedral in the center of the city. Nice photo spot.
Carthage Ruins
Mainly old ruins and historical landmarks, check out the Roman Baths here. One ticket will get you into multiple ruin sites – be aware of the touts though that will try to be your guide or sell you souvenirs.
Bizerte Old Port/Harbor
Some nice colorful houses and shops here in Bizerte but relatively quiet and authentic town, very little tourism here. It’s nice if you want to see authentic Tunisia since the souks here do not even sell souvenirs.
Sousse Medina
A smaller medina compared to Tunis’s medina and much quieter but worth a stop if you’re in town.
Mausoleum – Monastir
Built for the late president of Tunisia, this is a small mausoleum frequented by visitors to Monastir. Free to enter.
Ribat – Monastir
As an avid video game fan, this reminds me of Dust 2 in Counter Strike. Pair this with the mauseoleum on your Monastir trip. They are about 10 minutes apart.3
Amphitheater – El Jem
An impressive structure in El Jem that rivals the Colosseum – worth a visit to see! I saw many foreign tourists here – seems to be a focal point for a Tunisia trip.
RESTAURANTS
Fondouk El Attarine – Tunis
A very famous restaurant in the medina of Tunis – the food was decent but the service was slow and horrible. It seemed like they were understaffed and dropped the ball.
Cafe Des Delices – Sidi Bou Said
This is the famous cafe with postcards view of Sidi Bou Said. Unfortunately, they have decided to capitalize on that and “scam” tourists into paying for overpriced drinks and sweets here. Come here knowing that you will pay a premium for food and beverage. When your beverage order arrives, the waiter may also drop off a plate of Tunisian sweets. These are not free. Refuse if you don’t want to pay for it. Expect to spend US$10 here for food/drink which is expensive for Tunisian standards, but hey if you’re looking for the perfect Instagram shot – this is where you get it.
Sidi Bou Said Nautical Club
This is an upscale restaurant in Sidi Bou Said specializing in fresh seafood, it’s a nice marina atmosphere here. Recommended to come for lunch and they accept credit cards. Prices are expensive in Tunisian standards but reasonable for seafood compared to the U.S. Good service.
Dar Fatma – Tunis
A small Tunisian restaurant located north of the city, they serve various local dishes including couscous. They were out of many menu items during my visit which was unfortunate. Good service and food.
El Ali Restaurant – Tunis
A bit overrated in my opinion, we tried the iftar menu and found the food to be lukewarm and not as tasty as we expected. The service is pleasant though. They have high reviews online but missed the mark on my visit.
Restaurant L’escargot – Sousse
My favorite meal in Sousse – located across from the Marriott is this French restaurant serving a mean t-bone steak. Delicious and not overpriced.
Restaurant Cafe Seles – Sousse
A small family-run restaurant with a nice rooftop terrace, stop by to see the views and try their couscous dishes.
Marine Club – Bizerte
Similar to the Sidi Bou Said Nautical Club, this is an upscale seafood focused restaurant on the marina. They accept credit card and have nice views but expect to pay premium prices for food here. Good service and environment for visitors.
Men Only Cafes
You’ll see a lot of outdoor cafes with only men smoking or drinking coffee/tea. Apparently, these are men only cafes that are common in this part of the world. A novel concept I ran into.
ACCOMODATIONS
Sidi Bou Said Airbnb
My primary base in Tunis – this is a comfortable 2 bedroom airbnb in Sidi Bou Said. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/49770055
Four Seasons Tunis
Hands down the most impressive hotel/resort I saw in Tunisia and perhaps all of my Africa travels so far. I enjoyed afternoon tea here and the quality of the service along with food/beverage was excellent. This hotel is the most expensive in Tunisia – about US$300-$400/night.
Ramada Plaza Tunis
Stayed here on Wyndham points and would not recommend. Rooms are old, filthy, and have many cleanliness problems. Shower is poorly designed and does not hold a consistent water temperature. Location is isolated and only reachable by car. Overall facilities leave a lot to be desired. I would advise you to stay away.
Movenpick Sousse
This is the better of the two “5-star” hotels in Sousse. The location is on a central avenue of Sousse near other restaurants and businesses. Service is excellent and security is uptight. I did not stay here but wish I did since the Marriott was a terrible experience.
Marriott Sousse
I would not recommend this hotel; it’s not five-stars. The rooms lack air conditioning and cleanliness. There were stains in the bedding, bathroom, and half of the hotel complex is closed and abandoned. This area surrounding the hotel is also not ideal, most buildings are abandoned resembling Pripyat. Breakfast options were limited and unappetizing. I suggest staying at Movenpick instead.
RANDOM WISDOM AND TIPS
1) Toilet paper is often not provided in public restrooms, bring your own. Bidets are more commonly used.
2) Tunisian drivers are terrible in terms of Western safety standards, best to not think too much.
3) Tunisians are very friendly and hospitable but scams still exist, especially in the medina areas. It’s best to not follow anyone who advertises a rooftop terrace, handicraft festival, or the like. It’s most likely a scam.
4) There are very few Asian looking tourists in Tunisia, if you are East Asian looking especially Korean male – expect to get a lot of attention as BTS/K-Pop culture is on the rise here. My friend was stopped dozens of times for selfies.
5) Dress conservatively, men do not wear shorts in Tunisia from what I can tell outside of resorts.
6) Alcohol is available, pork products are not available.
7) Compared to more conservative Muslim countries I’ve visited, Tunisia is on the liberal side. Men and women are free to eat in the same areas and visit shopping malls etc.
8) Bring hand sanitizer, soap is often not stocked in public restrooms – even restaurant ones.
9) Bring a coin wallet, Tunisians use a lot of coins.
10) Try the fresh orange juice – Tunisians love their OJ.