Dates Visited: March 13 – 15, 2019
Introduction
When planning trips during exchange, I made sure to visit the classic destinations in Southeast Asia (Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, etc.) but another goal was to venture beyond the usual. Cambodia, a small country of 16 million sandwiched between Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand caught my eye with its world-famous Angkor Wat complex, cheap hotel prices, and direct flights from Hong Kong on HK Express. So, for a long weekend I planned three days in Siem Reap before heading off to Hanoi.
Arriving
Siem Reap International Airport (REP)
Flying into Siem Reap, you don’t see skyscrapers. Skylines, tall glitzy buildings, large bodies of water, none of that. Siem Reap is mostly flat and having come in the middle of the hot, dry, humid season – rain is a rarity. The main (and only) airport in Siem Reap is small, compact, and cozy. There are no jet bridges. You immediately deplane onto the hot Cambodian tarmac before walking into the mildly air-conditioned immigration checkpoint.
Immigration/Customs
As of my visit, there were two options for visas into Cambodia which were required for U.S. Citizens. The first option was an e-Visa that some of my friends used. A fairly straightforward online process of applying for an eVisa and printing the visa paper to bring with you. This is probably the most time efficient option.
The second option was visa-on-arrival which was what I did. Visa-on-arrival, while wasn’t the fastest option was beneficial in that I got a beautiful Cambodian visa stamped into my passport. You’ll fill out a form given on arrival, pay about $30 USD, hand over your passport, and wait 20-45 minutes for your passport to be validated, stamped with the visa and returned to you before proceeding through immigration.
Note that the visa fee must be paid in U.S. Dollars cash only and ATMs might not be working. I did not have any issues in terms of being asked for bribes or anything of that sort. However, corruption is a major problem in Southeast Asia so do be on the look out.
Lounges
There is one Priority Pass accessible lounge at REP and that is the Plaza Premium Lounge. Not very crowded at all and the food is about average for a PP lounge. There were some local Khmer cuisine options along with typical airport lounge snacks. Nice air-conditioned space to wait for your flight though.
Currency
Cambodia has a very unique currency system for Asia. They use the U.S. dollar in everyday transactions that you, as a tourist, would have. Prices in stores and restaurants are quoted in U.S. Dollar.
The local currency (Cambodian Riel) is only used as loose change (at a rate of 4000 Riels to 1 Dollar). For example, if you were to purchase a dish of beef lok lak for $3.50 USD and you paid with a $5 USD bill – the restaurant would give you $1 USD in change and 2000 Riels ($0.50USD). The generally used exchange rate is 4000:1 and I do suggest you try to spend all of your Riels before leaving as not many currency exchanges will accept them outside of Cambodia.
For me as an American, using the U.S. dollar again after 3 months of cycling through various currencies on my travels was an oddly refreshing experience. Although, it did feel weird to pay $2-$3 USD for a dish of noodles that would have cost $12-$13USD back home. ATMs in Cambodia dispense U.S. dollars and while credit card transactions run in U.S. Dollars, still note foreign transaction fees apply!
Taxis/Rideshare/Local Transportation
Siem Reap does not have the typical taxis roaming the streets. Instead, you have tuk-tuks which are rick shaws hooked up to a motorcycle generally fitting 2-4 passengers. My hotel arranged a car to pick us up from the airport, but there are tuk-tuks abundant outside the airport. Rides within the city generally cost a flat rate of $2USD but further destinations may be $3USD. Your hotel/hostel will generally be able to call tuk-tuks for you or you could download and use the Grab app. Unless you are headed to the airport, on a day tour of Angkor Wat, or going somewhere particularly far – getting a car may be more expensive/unnecessary whereas tuk-tuks suffice.
They hatin’
SIM Cards/Wi-Fi
Coming out of immigration, you’ll see SIM card kiosks by the exit of the airport. SIM cards are quite cheap in Cambodia although the quality and speed of the cellular data service (4G/3G) is not the best. It will suffice for social media and general use. I believe I paid about $4-5USD for a Smart SIM card and the data allowance was more than enough. The cellular provider staff at the various kiosks will assist you in SIM registration and setting up your phone with the necessary configurations. The hotel I stayed at also had sufficient Wi-Fi for general social media use.
Sightseeing
Angkor Wat
At 400 acres, Angkor Wat is Cambodia’s largest religious site and probably most famous tourist destination. Built completely by hand almost in the 12th Century, it proudly stands as a national symbol of Cambodia. To get here, you will need a tuk-tuk or car as it is outside of the city center and there is no public transportation along with a personalized photo ticket for foreigners purchased on-site that costs 37USD for one day, 62USD for three days, and 72USD for seven days. The price is quite steep, especially in Cambodian standards but the funds do go to maintaining this large historical site. Cash (USD and a few other currencies – forgot which ones) and credit cards are accepted.
I had only enough time for a quick one day tour through the most famous sites of this massive complex, but for those who have more time – definitely consider spending 2 or more days to really get a feel for how grand this temple complex really is. It is hot, humid, sticky, and please bring sunscreen and water when you visit. Also, there are cute monkeys in some parts of the complex so do keep an eye out. Your hotel can arrange drivers and tour guides for you, and there are many freelance tour guides on-site ready to offer you their services.
Psar Chas
If you’re looking for a market to buy goods, souvenirs, or even to exchange money – Psar Chas is a giant outdoor market that serves mainly locals with its wet market section of meats and produce and dry section of household goods, money exchangers, and more. Sanitary standards though, in my opinion, was not exactly the best here so do be prepared for that culture shock moment. Cash only.
Siem Reap Night Market
Not the best night market I’ve seen in Asia but if you’re looking for the night market atmosphere and shopping opportunities – come here but prepared to bargain hard with the vendors. Cash only.
War Museum
A nice selection of weapons, tanks, aircraft, and more from the country’s previous wars. Interesting to spend an hour or two and learn about the country’s history. Cash only and be cautious of drinking any beverages purchased from their gift shop – it may not be authentic.
Food/Drink
Cuisine Wat Damnak
When I first saw this restaurant on TripAdvisor, the price point shocked me at 4 dollar signs ($$$$). That enough could have made me close the tab, but I took a closer look and realized the price for a six-course tasting menu was only $34USD yet the reviews were shining. Figuring that it would be a “splurge” meal, I booked a reservation and showed up many weeks later. In a country where the average meal is <$5USD, spending $34USD on a meal is definitely high-end luxurious but the food did not disappoint.
The menu is seasonal rotating every two weeks, but some of my favorites on my menu include the crispy duck confit fried rice, beef cheek, and pandan French toast with dark chocolate ganache. Definitely make a reservation and be ready to be wow’ed by the 6-course experience at Cuisine Wat Damnak. This along with Mahob Cuisine (below) are two restaurants in Cambodia I still rave about as must-eats to this day. Cash and credit cards accepted.
Mahob Cuisine
Another excellent traditional Khmer cuisine restaurant in Siem Reap. Food is ordered a la carte here and boasts both indoor and outdoor seating areas (mind the mosquitoes though). Lots of seating space, but definitely call to see if you need a reservation first. My favorites on the menu include hot stone Khmer beef, lemongrass ice cream, dragonfruit ice cream, and honey duck breast. This along with Cuisine Wat Damnak (above) are two restaurants in Cambodia I still rave about to this day as must-eats in Siem Reap. Cash and credit cards accepted.
Pub Street
This isn’t exactly one restaurant but rather a pedestrian street full of street food vendors, bars, clubs, sit-down restaurants, massage parlors, stores, and a night market in the vicinity. It really comes alive at night though, so visit after sunset for the best experience. No specific recommendations as I did not partake in any nightlife activities but be prepared for the very aggressive touts representing fish feet massage parlors and more. Cash only, generally.
Tevy’s Place
The first meal I had in Siem Reap after getting off the plane – a small family- run and very low-key eatery for lunch with delicious beef lok lak for about $3USD a plate. No frills, just good beef. Cash only.
Accommodation
Hillocks Hotel & Spa
A 5-star hotel experience in Siem Reap – we booked direct on their website and received many special benefits as a result ranging from free airport pick-up, free tuk-tuk rides each night, free welcome cocktails, free room upgrades, free full body massages, free cocktails and small snacks, and more. They will also assist in arranging a driver/tour guide if you want to visit Angkor Wat and nearby sights. The hotel and spa staff here were extremely hospitable and while our stay was short, they left an outstanding and positive impression. And despite being a 5-star hotel, prices are quite affordable compared to nearby 5-star chain hotels. The hotel is located a bit outside of the main city center, but tuk-tuks are always waiting outside and can be called on-demand by the staff to whisk you downtown and back within minutes.
