Cuba

Dates Visited: February 27, 2023 – March 8, 2023 

Arriving

Jose Marti International Airport (HAV)

I flew into Havana on a direct United flight from Newark, there’s a bit more bureaucracy involved for U.S – Cuba flights like a separate check in area, purchasing the tourist card, but it was an uneventful four hour flight. The HAV airport Terminal 3 is responsible for international flights and is relatively spacious and modern – for Cuban standards.

Arrival Immigration/Customs

Arriving into Cuba, you are required to fill out their “DViajeros” health declaration form and receive a QR code once submitted. You are also required to have a “Cuba Tourist Card” which sells for $85-$100 in the U.S. I am told that the U.S. ones are pink while the non-U.S. ones are green (and cheaper). You can buy these from your airline – United was selling them for $85 at the airport check-in counter.

If you would like a Cuban passport stamp, make sure you explicitly ask the immigration officer to stamp your passport – otherwise they will only stamp your Tourist Card. You must hold on to your Tourist Card during your whole stay – they will need to see it at departure. I’m not sure what happens if you lose it but I suspect you’ll be out another $50 for a new one.

Once you land and deplane, you will be asked for your health declaration QR code before lining up for immigration. I had the unfortunate experience of being pulled into secondary inspection (presumably because of my American nationality + Male + traveling solo) – I was asked standard questions about my purpose for being in Cuba, my occupation in the U.S, amount of cash on me, my luggage contents by the immigration supervisor and then subsequently allowed in. After you are stamped in, your hand baggage must go through an x-ray and you must pass a metal detector. After this security check, you can claim checked baggage at the carousel if you have any – note that this process took a while – almost an hour and I heard it can take up to three hours because of the slow security screening that is required for all checked baggage arriving in Cuba. In the baggage claim area, there is a Cubatur desk where you can pick up a “pre-ordered CubaCel tourist sim card” too. But, you can not buy a SIM card here – you must first exit the airport and cross the parking lot to reach the ETECSA office.

Currency

Outdated travel guides about Cuba from pre-COVID days may mention about a 10% penalty for exchanging USD to CUC/CUP or the “Cuban convertible pesos”/ CUC and CUP dual currency system. That is all obsolete. The CUC no longer exists and the 10% penalty is gone.

As of March 2023, there is only one local cash currency which is the CUP – Cuban Pesos – sometimes referred to as moneda nacional (MN). This is the currency that the locals use daily, and what you will most likely be using during your stay in Cuba for daily necessities. If you are not using CUP, most likely you will be using U.S. dollars or Euros.

The best foreign currencies to bring to Cuba are Euros and U.S. dollars (new, crisp, unripped notes – they are very picky about the condition of the money). For U.S. dollars, bring $5, $10, $20 USD notes. Canadian dollars seem to be accepted too but not as desired as the Euro or USD. Pounds sterling were outright rejected.

For Americans, bring all of the cash you will need + extra supply just in case – ATMs will not accept your American debit card and due to the embargo – there is no easy way to wire money to Cuba from the U.S.

EXCHANGING MONEY

If you go on Google and look up the USD/CUP exchange rate, you might find that the rate is 1 USD: 24 CUP – this is the official government rate which is not used anywhere in reality. Due to inflation and economic circumstances, the peso really is worth 160-180 pesos per U.S. dollar on the black market.

If you bring your foreign currency (USD, EUR) to a “CADECA” state-run cambio shop, you will not get 1 USD:24 CUP – you will get 1 USD:120CUP which is still an unfavorable rate. My suggestion is to exchange your foreign currency “on the street” aka. the black market – or with your driver/AirBnB host. While this sounds sketchy and questionable, it is the best way to exchange foreign currency for Cuban pesos and you can find many eager Cuban money exchangers on “Calle Obispo” – the main shopping street of Havana. Don’t be intimidated – the money exchangers will quietly whisper “money change” in your ear as you walk by and if you are interested, they will share their offering rate. There is room for negotiation here – look up the black market rates on El Toque – you should expect this rate +/- 20 pesos – if you come to an amicable agreement with the exchanger, he’ll walk you to a safe location – a nearby restaurant/shop/home where the transaction will take place. I did this multiple times during my stay in Havana and did not run into any issues.

Generally, every restaurant (paladar/privately owned), bar, etc will accept U.S. dollars and Cuban Pesos but the rate may not be as favorable. For example, if I exchanged $100 USD on the black market at Calle Obispo at the example rate of 180CUP/USD, I could receive 18,000 Cuban Pesos. If I visit Paladar A and the food bill is 2000 CUP but the restaurant accepts U.S. dollars at 150CUP/USD – it would be more favorable for me to pay in CUP than USD in this event. That is why I suggest you keep your wallet filled with both CUP and USD bills.

MLC CARD/INTERNATIONAL DEBIT AND CREDIT CARDS IN CUBA

Why are Cuban locals so eager to purchase USD/EUR from foreigners? That brings me to the next topic – the MLC (Moneda Libremente Convertible) – a digital “virtual” currency that is pegged 1:1 to the U.S. dollar but solely exists on pre-paid debit cards that can only be purchased at Cuban banks with foreign currency (EUR, CAD etc – but not the USD) and only used within Cuba.

If you have a non-U.S. bank issued Visa or MasterCard credit card, you can skip the below paragraph about MLC cards – your credit card from home should work fine in Cuba.

But, if you are American and only have a U.S. bank issued Visa or MasterCard – no U.S. bank issued debit or credit card will work in Cuba due to the embargo and sanctions. Period.

How do you buy “international goods” like Colgate Toothpaste or Old Spice body wash then?

This is where the MLC card comes in. If you are paying for drinks/food at a large 5 star hotel in Havana, buying daily necessities at “MLC” state-run stores or shopping malls, or buying cigars/rum from a state-run store, you will find that cash (whether that be EUR cash, USD cash, or CUP cash) is simply not accepted. You can only use MLC debit card or a non U.S. Visa/MasterCard. This means that local Cubans who do not have hard foreign currency are effectively cut off from purchasing things in MLC stores/MLC shopping malls. Couple that with the fact that the Cuban government will not exchange pesos into dollars/euros, locals have no other option to buy foreign currency besides from tourists visiting.

For Americans in Cuba who want to purchase items at MLC stores or cashless hotels, MLC cards can be purchased at CADECAs or Cuban banks with foreign currency in cash (but not the US Dollar – confusingly. They will take Euros though). I went an entire week without needing to buy an MLC card but if you expect to spend significant time in Cuba and are American, you might consider bringing Euros to purchase an MLC debit card. I read online they only come in denominations of $200, $500 or $1000 though.

To summarize…

If you only have a U.S. bank issued Visa/MasterCard card

  1. Bring new crisp USD bills in $5, $10, $20 denominations – bring all of the money you will need since you can not withdraw any from ATMs if you run out
  2. Bring new crisp EUR bills [if you are able to]
  3. Exchange your USD on the black market for Cuban Pesos – check rate on El Toque
  4. If desired, bring EUR to a CADECA office or local bank to purchase MLC debit card

If you have a non U.S. bank issued Visa/MasterCard card

  1. Bring new crisp USD or EUR bills in $5, $10, $20 denominations
  2. Exchange your USD/EUIR on the black market for Cuban Pesos – check rate on El Toque
  3. You can use your credit or debit card at hotels and stores that accept Visa/MasterCard

Note: Changing the CUP back to USD/EUR at the end of your trip is near impossible through official means – CADECA will not exchange it – so be mindful of how much foreign currency you exchange to Cuban Pesos towards the end of your stay.

SIM card/Wi-Fi/Internet

Internet is a relatively new thing in Cuba – many Cubans do not have Internet access at home and rely on public hotspots or their cellular data connection. Internet access in private homes only took off after the Cuban Thaw. That being said, internet speeds in Cuba are extremely slow (imagine early 2000s AOL dial-up modem) and quite unreliable for anything besides simple messaging and browsing the Web. My suggestion is to download a VPN (like ExpressVPN) before going because many international websites are blocked if you have a Cuban IP address.

There is no “Free Internet” or “Free Wi-Fi” anywhere in Cuba – Wi-Fi is paid for by scratch-off cards that you can purchase from ETECSA (the state-run telecommunications monopoly) shops. These cards have a login and password that will be valid for x hours depending on the value of the card you purchase. ETECSA is the only Internet provider in the entire country.

Check with your hotel or AirBnb host about the WiFi situation at your accommodation – either you will be responsible for reimbursing the host to add money to your WiFi account or have to purchase the ETECSA scratch-off cards yourself. Remember to log off/turn off your WiFi modem when finished or you will waste your WiFi pre-paid time. The cost of WiFi is roughly US$3 for 40 hours of connectivity at the time of my visit. Note that the 5 star hotels in Havana have a separate sub-network which does not accept the regular ETECSA scratch-off cards – you will have to pay at the hotel’s front desk for their WiFi.

Public hotspots can be found online, they are usually around city parks and centers where you can find locals on their cell phones. Again, the internet speed nationwide is very slow and unreliable for anything beyond simple browsing and communications.

For SIM cards, your only option is ETECSA/Cubacel which can be purchased across the airport exit at their airport branch. Your passport is required for registration and there may be a long queue. Alternatively, Calle Obispo has an ETECSA office that can also provision new SIM cards. The cost is US$10 for the Cubacel SIM card package which comes with 3.5GB of data and some minutes and SMS. To recharge your account, visit an ETECSA store – A recharge of 2.5GB of LTE data costs 200 CUP from ETECSA.- I do not suggest using the “paper recharge slips” sold by third-party agents as they did not work for my phone account for a unknown reason. ETECSA stores take cash (CUP).

I believe there is an option to pre-order a Cubacel SIM card here – http://cubaceltur.com/#providers

Departure

Departing from HAV airport, there are many souvenir stores before security that will accept Cuban pesos. However, once you pass through customs, officially exporting Cuban pesos is not permitted. This means souvenir stores after security will only accept foreign cash or card and your change will be in foreign cash.

There are not many food options in this airport concourse; but plenty of cigar, rum, and souvenir stores. I only saw one restaurant selling pre-made cheese sandwiches (think American elementary school lunch). I saw one VIP lounge which did not look notable. The departure process is relatively simple here and uneventful.

Remember to ask for a Cuban exit stamp on your passport from the immigration officer – if desired. They do not stamp passports automatically.

SAFETY

Besides the barrage of touts offering money exchange and taxis in the touristy old Havana section, I found no safety issues in Havana. It was safe to walk in the city alone at night, even in the sections with little lighting due to power supply issues. I felt that the Havana downtown was relatively safe as far as capital cities go. Practice usual precautions.

TAXIS/RIDESHARE/LOCAL TRANSPORTATION/FIXERS/GUIDES

For my arrival airport transfer, I used a local taxi driver – Angel who is fluent in English – he can be reached on WhatsApp at +53 5 2703575 – airport transfers should cost $25-$30USD to the old Havana center. Alternatively, you can reach out to Nostalgicar to get picked up in a classic car ( message the manager on WhatsApp at +53 5 2953842)

For ride sharing apps, I suggest downloading “La Nave” and setting it up with your Cuban phone number. Cash only.

There are also “WhatsApp taxi groups” you can join to request informal taxis (message the Havana VIP Taxi manager at +53 5 84082 18) – this is a good option for Spanish speakers. The taxis here are cheaper than other options but they are unofficial vehicles.

You can also hail a modern yellow taxi off the street (note that these are the most expensive) and negotiate the price with the driver as meters are not used. The Parque Central area will always have available taxis for hire. Alternatively, you can use shared taxis (collectivos) which are the older run-down classic cars if you can speak Spanish and know your Havana geography. The yellow “coconut” taxis are also an option but beware their price gouging habits.

For the touristic classic car tour of the city, I also suggest reaching out to Nostalgicar – they were very friendly and helpful in setting up a tour of the city while riding in a pristinely restored American classic car – message the manager on WhatsApp at +53 5 2953842

Traffic yields to no one in Cuba – be mindful of crossing the street. If a car flashes their headlights at you, this does not mean he is yielding – rather that he is proceeding straight ahead and you should yield to him.

For trips to Vinales, I recommend booking the day trip with Ernesto (+34 642 30 60 78) or at his Airbnb experience link – https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/185319

SIGHTSEEING

Fusterlandia

This is an artistic neighborhood about 20 minutes outside of Old Havana, it reminds me of Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. A nice photo stop to check out the art installations.

Callejon de Hamel

This is the alley/neighborhood dedicated to Afro-Cuban culture with murals, artwork, sculptures depicting the history. There are tour guides here who will explain the history to you and lead you on a tour of their neighborhood. I hear that there is a Rumba dance show every weekend on Sundays.

Vinales Valley

3-4 hours outside of Havana, Vinales is a small town in Pinar Del Rio province that is worth a day trip to visit. I recommend booking with Ernesto as his experience was a highlight of my time in Cuba. You will get to try an amazing pina colada, ride horses, visit a tobacco farm, hike a Cuban cave, enjoy a home made lunch with a Cuban family, visit a coffee farm, and smoke a hand-rolled Cuban cigar. If you are interested in purchasing Cuban cigars to bring home, I recommend purchasing them in Vinales – the price was roughly US$5/cigar compared to US$10-$145/cigar in Havana. The farmers that sell cigars only accept cash (USD).

5th Avenue and Miramar Neighborhood

Before the Revolution, this was the upper-class wealthy sector of Havana with streets lined by mansions and compounds. Since the Revolution, this has become the diplomatic neighborhood with many of those former mansions now turned into embassies and consulates. You may also find some corporate offices here as well.

Fabrica de Arte Cubano (FAC)

This used to be a cooking oil factory and is now turned into an art gallery with many bars and a dance floor inside. It’s a very hip and happening place and it’s only open Thursday – Sunday nights. Cover was about US $2 and you can enjoy all 3 floors of the art complex. Dress up for this – it’s a night out.

Vedado Neighborhood/Avenida 23

Vedado is known as the downtown of Havana – the more modern side of the city. Along Avenida 23, you can find many hotels, restaurants, bars, and shops. Prices tend to be cheaper here compared to Old Havana.

Revolution Square/Plaza de la Revolucion

This was the most “North Korea” thing I saw in Cuba – it honestly would not look out of place to be part of Pyongyang. This stop is usually included in the classic car city tour as a photo stop. There are a few monuments and memorials here to various Cuban revolutionaries and a giant open square.

The Malecon

This is the walkway that runs along the sea – it’s more popular at night when locals and tourists alike come out. Beware that there are many prostitutes at night in this area.

Chinatown

This is a Chinatown without any Chinese people. The former Chinese residents of this neighborhood left during the Revolution and now, Chinatown is a tiny section of Havana with about 6-7 restaurants that serve Cuban-Chinese food. I found the restaurants and food options to be unappetizing.

Museum of the Revolution

The interior was closed during my visit but you can pay to see the outside exhibits which were aircraft, tanks, missiles, and vehicles from the 1950s-1970s.

Old Havana

This is the touristy part of Havana with cathedrals, European town squares and historic sites. Expect food prices to be higher here for what you get. At night, it tends to be quiet unless you stay closer to the Parque Central side of the neighborhood.

Coppelia Ice Cream

Fidel Castro built an ice cream parlor which is the world’s largest and dubbed an “ice cream cathedral” – it’s located in the Vedado neighborhood and sells ice cream for US$0.05 a scoop. Locals wait in long queues during the weekend for this subsidized ice cream. There are usually 2 or 3 flavors available. If you rather not queue for an hour, there are privately owned ice cream shops like Casa Gelato in Vedado that will sell ice cream for US$2 a scoop.

Calle Obispo

The main shopping street of Havana, you won’t see international brands (H&M, Zara, etc) here. Most stores with international goods will be government-run and only accept MLC. Privately owned stores will accept USD/CUP cash. There is also an ETECSA office here where you can buy a SIM card and recharge your account.

National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana

This is a beautiful art museum across from the Kempinski hotel; I recommend exploring this museum for a few hours as they have a number of rotating Cuban and foreign art exhibits on display.

National Capitol

Unfortunately, the interior was closed during my visit but this is a replica of the U.S. Capitol that is one meter taller and one meter wider. Nice spot to take photos as it is a Havana landmark.

Parque Histórico Morro y Cabaña

A military complex with a fort and a lighthouse and a huge statue of Jesus Christ nearby overlooking the city. A quick photo stop usually included in the classic car city tour.

Gran Teatro de La Habana

Tours are available but you are not allowed inside this theater without a tour guide. I did not join any tours here so I only saw the theater from the outside.

Classic Car Tour

This is the must-do of any visit to Havana – I recommend reaching out to Nostalgicar to setup a 1 or 2 hour tour where you will see the main highlights of Havana while riding in an American classic car. These tours are inexpensive and truly something you can only get in Cuba. Alternatively, there are plenty of classic car drivers waiting near the Malecon, Parque Central and Kempinski Hotel who will be willing to take you on a tour. Expect to pay US$25-$35 per hour for the car and driver (maximum capacity of 4 persons)

South Old Havana’s Art District

This is a small area around the Jose Marti Birthplace Museum with murals and artwork. A nice outdoor stroll to look at Cuban art.

Almacenes San José Artisans’ Market

This is a souvenir market where you can pick up all of your souvenir needs. Plenty of Cuban souvenirs, magnets, postcards, hand-made handicrafts, cigar boxes, rum, etc They have on-site currency exchangers who will offer a very good rate (at my visit, 180CUP/1USD) for your foreign cash. Remember to haggle prices and negotiate. All of the vendors sell very similar products so definitely walk around and check out the whole array of options first.

Plaza Carlos III Shopping Mall (MLC only)

This is the only real shopping mall option in Havana – limited stores and merchandise and they only take MLC card or non U.S. Visa/MasterCard. They have a few stores with toiletries ,hardware, baby supplies, fast food options, but it’s nothing like a shopping mall you would find in Europe or the U.S. Not worth a visit since it’s out of the way unless you are looking to purchase something you can’t find in Calle Obispo.

RESTAURANTS – a curated list of my Havana culinary experiences

Special note: There are two types of restaurants in Cuba – state-owned/government-run restaurants and privately-owned restaurants (known as paladars). The general rule of thumb is that state-owned restaurants cost less, but the food quality is not as great and the atmosphere/ambiance can be lacking. Privately owned restaurants cost more but the food quality is higher and you’ll be in a nicer ambiance. Most tourists will be eating at privately-owned restaurants in Havana as the state-owned restaurants are lacking in many ways.

Note: Privately-owned restaurants in Old Havana tend to be more expensive and give smaller portions of food compared to privately-owned restaurants in Vedado or Miramar neighborhoods(generally outside of Old Havana)

La Paila Fonda

This was hands down the best paladar I visited – my absolute favorite in Cuba. They gave generous amounts of food and the service was great. A grilled lobster tail dish cost about US$9 here and you get a large size tail. This is located in Vedado, away from the touristy sectors.

La Guarida

This is the most expensive meal I had in Cuba – and the most famous paladar in the city. Reservations are required and can be made by email. Make sure you request a table on their outdoor balcony terrace. While the ambiance and service were stellar, the price point for the food was not a good value. The entrance to the paladar is also an Instagram-famous photo spot.

El Aljibe
This is the most famous state run restaurant in Havana and Anthony Bourdain had a meal here. They are famous for their roasted chicken with rice and beans. It does feel like a tourist trap as bus loads of tourists eat here every day for lunch. The food and service were what you would expect from a state-run place.

Paladar Dona Eutimia

Tucked in a little alleyway in Old Havana, this paladar is cozy and compact and serves Cuban classics like ropa vieja. Good service and price point given the location. I would go for lunch rather than dinner here as the area becomes quiet at night.

Los Narcos

This is across from the Capitol Building on the 2nd floor – the restaurant has strong air conditioning and a dark ambiance. The food options are diverse and their paella was quite filling.

Restaurant Tien Tan in Miramar (not Chinatown!)

This was the most authentic Chinese restaurant in Havana according to my Google searches, the owner is Chinese and runs the restaurant on the ground floor of her home. For those wanting Asian food, this is the closest you’ll find in Cuba. This restaurant is located a bit far outside the Old Havana though.

ACCOMODATIONS

Revolution Square Airbnb

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/19655267

I stayed in this Airbnb during my time in Cuba – it is affordable, conveniently located to Revolution Square and has everything you will need. Dayli is a great host and will take care of you during your time in Cuba.

Iberostar Parque Central

This is a four star hotel in the Parque Central area that has two separate buildings, the historical and the modern building.

Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana

This is Havana’s first true 5-star hotel from the European hotel chain Kempinski – they have a nice rooftop pool and terrace with views of the Capitol.

Hotel Nacional

This is a legendary hotel from the 1930s that hosted Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra and more. While it’s no longer the most luxurious property in the city, if you’re looking for a classic time warp experience, check this one out.

Claxon Boutique

This is a small privately owned hotel in the Miramar neighborhood themed after American classic cars; I walked past this property one day and it looked like a very nice boutique hotel.

RANDOM NOTES AND WISDOM

  • There are a lot of queues in Cuba. Want to buy stamps for a postcard at a post office? Queue. Want to buy a SIM card? Queue. Want to enter a supermarket? Queue. Use an ATM? Queue. I’m not sure if this is a relic of the social distancing era since many state-run stores limit capacity inside their venues or if it’s always been like this. Cubans ask “El Ultimo?” to find the last person in the queue and wait after him/her. Cubans don’t wait in one neat orderly line while queueing.
  • Bottled water is not something locals use, and therefore only a product sold to tourists. In the touristy Old Havana, you can find shops selling domestic bottled water on Calle Obispo in small (500mL), large (1500mL), and extra large (5000mL) sizes. Some restaurants may also sell imported bottled water from Mexico or the Dominican Republic -or even Europe. It appears locals drink tap water or boiled water. As a general rule of thumb, bring bottled water everywhere you go outside of Havana as it may be hard to find it. I would not suggest drinking tap water or even brushing your teeth with tap water while in Cuba – I learned that the hard way.
  • If you need to buy toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, deodorant, body wash, shampoo – expect to have to use MLC/international Visa/MasterCard to purchase it at a state owned MLC store. I couldn’t find these items outside of MLC stores.
  • It is cheaper to purchase Cuban cigars directly from farmers in Vinales than at the state-run stores in Havana. For rum, it appears a liter of Havana Club goes for US$10 during my visit at state-run stores.
  • If you are staying in an Airbnb/Casa Particulares, know the address of your accommodation and it’s nearby cross streets and landmarks in case you need to communicate this to a taxi driver.
  • Carry small bills in USD and CUP at all times.
  • You do not need to carry your passport on a day to day basis in Cuba – I was never asked for it outside of checking into Airbnb/hotel and for airport formalities.
  • Food shortages are real but as a tourist, you won’t be affected. Locals still live on food rations, yet tourists eat lobster in restaurants.
  • Commodity shortages are real and will affect you as a tourist – don’t expect to be able to buy your favorite shampoo or body wash brand from back home in Cuba. Bring everything you need to be self-sufficient.
  • If you’re American, I cannot stress enough to bring all the cash you will need and then some extra. There is absolutely no way to get more cash while you’re in the country from an ATM or a bank.
  • Power outages are not unheard of, consider bringing a flashlight just in case.
  • Internet speeds are slow and sometimes completely unusable, do not count on being able to make Microsoft Teams calls or FaceTimes while in country.
  • 10% service charge is usually included in restaurant bills, no need to give additional tip.
  • Children may come up to you and ask for candy, one thing I wish I had on me was a bag of Chupa Chups or something similar to hand out.
  • OTC medications (ibuprofen, Tylenol, Panadol, Immodium, Pepto-Bismol) etc are impossible, read impossible to find in Cuba. Bring everything you need from home and donate what you have left at the end. Don’t count on being able to find prescription medications here either. The hospitals and doctors have bare shelves.
  • Cuban people are some of the most friendly and hospitable I’ve met – unfortunately there are still scams and cons that target tourists especially in Old Havana. Be on the look out for anything that doesn’t feel right. I heard there are scams where tourists are given a sob story and taken to a “shop” to buy “milk to donate” to a family, but the shop owner and scammer are both in on the scheme.