Dates Visited: October 4 2022 – October 8 2022
Arriving
Félix Houphouët Boigny International Airport (ABJ)
Abidjan’s international airport and the main gateway into Ivory Coast – this airport is 30 minutes outside city center (the Plateau neighborhood) of Abidjan. I arrived on Air Cote’D’Ivoire from Accra and this is a small airport (think less than 15 gates) – expect a short walk to all gates/facilities. Unfortunately, the airline did misroute my baggage to Ouagadougou which resulted in me spending most of my day at the airport locating my bag. Expect basic facilities, nothing amazing to write home about for this airport.
Immigration/Customs
I took advantage of the Visa on Arrival/eVisa option for Ivory Coast which is filling out an application at the website: https://snedai.com/e-visa/ – you’ll pay roughly $80USD for the visa and receive a PDF that basically says you’re approved for the visa. Take note, this is not an actual visa. When you land in Abidjan, as soon as you get off the plane and into the terminal, you will need to go to the eVisa office where they will take your fingerprints, photo, and print you a visa sticker which will take up a full page in your passport. I dodged a bullet when the visa officer was willing to put my visa sticker on the “endorsement” pages in the back of my passport since I was nearly out of space. Once you get the visa sticker, then you queue up to see an immigration officer and receive your stamp into the country.
My arrival experience was relatively smooth – no airport staff asked for bribes and there were signs everywhere informing that bribery is illegal etc etc. However, on my departure – a customs officer pulled me into an exam room that was closed-door and proceeded to question me about my possessions and demand “coffee money”. This was the first time ever in my travels (by then, 57 countries, and hundreds of international airports) I was ever blatantly asked for a bribe by an official. Of course, do not give them any bribes and eventually they will let you go.
Lounges
I was flying Ethiopian Airline’s business class product Cloud Nine which came with lounge access at Abidjan’s airport to the International Business Lounge. Admission can also be purchased for 30,000 CFA if I remember correctly – although it is not at all worth that price. The food selection is minimal and is mainly pre packaged cold snacks and beverages that are mass-produced/bottled. The only advantage is the comfortable and quiet seating area compared to the main terminal. They do not accept Priority Pass at this lounge.
Currency
Ivory Coast uses West African CFA francs which are a shared currency between 8 West African countries. The bills come in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, and 10,000. Most of the time it is advised to carry small change (500 – 2000). 5000 is rarely used and 10,000 is even rarer. Cash is predominantly used for smaller stores/restaurants although major international credit cards will be accepted at upscale shops, hotels, and larger restaurants that cater to foreigners. ATMs are plentiful around town and I also saw some money exchange shops at the airport and around the Plateau neighborhood.
Taxis/Rideshare/Local Transportation
You’ll see plenty of orange taxis roam Abidjan but many of these cars are from the 1980s/1990s and definitely would be banned from the roads in a Western country. They often do not have air conditioning and are poorly maintained. The taxi drivers in general only speak French. I had better luck requesting rides from the Uber or the Yango app (similar to Yandex Taxi in Russian speaking countries) and paying through credit card on the app. From the airport, you can request an Uber/Yango or take an airport taxi. I did not try any local public transportation during my time there.
Since I was traveling with Dayo Williams (Dayo Africa Tours) as my fixer, we used one of his private drivers to take us around Abidjan, Grand Bassam and Yamoussoukro. I would recommend doing this if you have the budget for it as normal taxis are not very comfortable for long distance travel.
SIM Cards/Wi-Fi
SIM Cards officially require passport registration in Ivory Coast but as soon as you exit customs/baggage claim, there will be touts selling SIM cards as well as kiosks. I purchased mine from a random kiosk without showing my passport and my SIM worked, so your mileage may vary. Generally, Orange is the better network but I did experience connectivity issues a handful of times during my week there. Unfortunately, that’s just a pain you gotta accept when traveling in West Africa that network connectivity is unstable.
Sightseeing
St Paul Cathedral in Abidjan
This is one of the top attractions in Abidjan, the St Paul Cathedral. You’ll notice it from its prominent exterior features while the stained glass inside make it one of the most eye-catching places to visit in Abidjan.
Former Colonial Mansion in Bingerville
During the colonial era, this was the mansion belonging to the French colonial governor of Ivory Coast. Built by the French military, it looks reminiscent of colonial French architecture I saw in Saigon (Independence Palace/Reunification Palace). Currently, it is an orphanage run by the Ivorian government.
Botanical Gardens in Bingerville
Nearby the colonial mansion is a small botanic gardens area that you can take a walk through for some refreshing nature. There is a nice looking bamboo archway entrance that reminds me of a hotel in Tulum.
Plateau Mosque in Abidjan
This is a beautiful mosque in Plateau that has a blue color theme, Dayo was able to get me in for a quick visit but I’m not sure if this mosque is open to the public usually.
Plateau Neighborhood in Abidjan
Abidjan is a city of opposites, the haves and have-nots are a stark difference that shows itself most in Plateau – the business center/central business district. Here, you have towering five star luxury hotels contrast with slums just mere miles away. Plateau is a neighborhood that’s lively during weekday business hours as locals and foreigners populate the skyscrapers, but after sunset- you’ll be the only one walking on the street. However, it is said to be quite safe regardless.
La Pyramide in Abidjan
This is a now-abandoned high rise building in Plateau built in the early 1970s to house offices and a shopping mall. It was designed by an Italian architect. Currently, it’s guarded to ensure there are no trespassers – you are not allowed inside the building.
The Basilica of Our Lady of Peace of Yamoussoukro
This was the single most impressive site in Ivory Coast, to me at least. This is the world’s largest Catholic basilica according to Guinness World Records. The basilica is larger than the Vatican and is located in the administrative capital of Ivory Coast (three hours away from Abidjan by car). The basilica has a number of features I’ve never seen before in other places of religious worship such as advanced acoustics, built in HVAC, and fully electronic hydraulic controlled doors. Tours are available here in English and photography is allowed outside only. Admission fee is charged in cash. The elevator was broken during my visit but it is possible to go to the second floor and see the interior from above.
Crocodile Lake in Yamoussoukro
Built by the former president, this is a small lake with crocodiles outside the Presidential palace. Worth a 5 minute stop to see the crocodiles but there’s not much else to it.
Grand Bassam
This is one of Ivory Coast’s UNESCO heritage sites, mostly comprised of old buildings during the colonial era that now have fallen into decay yet still maintain the original appearances. Things to see here include the cultural center, first hospital, first cathedral, artist center, ceramics center, and a local fishing village. It’s best to walk around and check out the buildings here to get the full experience.
Food/Drink
Ivory Coast has a surprisingly decent-sized Vietnamese population for West Africa and a number of authentic restaurants serving the typical Viet fare. This one was my favorite, cash-only and hole-in-the-wall vibes. I tried their goi cuon, cha gio, and bun bo. Impressive quality and authenticity considering we’re in West Africa – I was also surrounded by many Ivorians which is a good sign that the restaurant is popular amongst locals.
Allocodrome de Cocody
Very local vibes, open-air, no pretentiousness or air conditioning yet with delicious food. This place is famous for the Poisson Braisé (grilled fish) dish that Ivorians love. Often served with a side of Attiéké (similar to couscous but made from fermented cassava) and fried plantains (alloco) this was one of my favorite meals in Abidjan. It is traditionally ate with hands, so get ready to dig in. They don’t really have a menu and the service staff only speak French. Cash only.
Famous for their grilled oxtail (15,000 CFA), this is Ivorian cuisine up-scale in an air conditioned white table cloth environment. If you’re looking for something more on the fancy side, Saakan is a good choice. They have English menu, accept international credit card and have good sanitary standards.
Restaurant Le Débarcadère
Outdoor restaurant on the banks of the lagoon with amazing views of the Abidjan Plateau skyline- this restaurant serves a fusion of Ivorian-French food with innovative dishes like duck confit offered with local sides of fried plantains or Attiéké. They accept international credit cards and wait staff speak limited English. The restaurant is hidden on a back street, next to a military base with armed guard towers.
Accommodation
Noom Hotel Abidjan
I was wandering around the city looking at various hotels and ran into Noom which is arguably the most modern and nicest hotel in the city – recently built less than a year or two ago, Noom has multiple terraces (7th floor and rooftop) for food, drinks, and good views of the lagoon. I did not stay here so I can’t comment on the rooms but the staff here were incredibly friendly and even took me on an impromptu property tour. How’s that for service?
Seen Hotel Abidjan
I stayed here during my time in Abidjan and it was a decent accommodation option although I found the rooms to be quite small for the price and the bathroom was not well designed. E.g. the shower often overflowed and there is no true separation of the bedroom and bathroom (it’s all one room with a divider). Staff was friendly but English ability was limited. Free shuttle to/from the airport is available. If you’re looking for simple and no frills stay in Abidjan, Seen Hotel works.
Sofitel Abidjan
This is a historic hotel that is now the Sofitel, built with the 1970s vibe of large pillars, movie theater, pharmacy, and stores inside the hotel – it seemed to me that this was a central meeting place for diplomats and businessmen alike. High security including vehicle sweeps and X-Ray checks is in place. I can’t comment on the rooms but the lobbies did show sign of aging decay.