Dates Visited: May 4, 2023 – May 9, 2023

Preface

By far – Syria was one of the most memorable countries of all my travels.

For years, I either heard very negative things about Syria (from the news media) or very positive things about Syria (from fellow travelers who have been there themselves). It presented an interesting dichotomy that I was eager to unpack for myself. While Americans were unfortunately banned from visiting for many years, a window of opportunity presented itself in 2023 which I jumped on. I absolutely chose the right decision and look forward to my return to Syria in the future.

Safety

TLDR: I never felt unsafe during my time in Syria – even walking around by myself – at night.

Of course, I wanted to get this section addressed off the bat for those that are curious. Syria has gone through a decade of conflict and war that devastated the country and brought down the tourism industry. The country is currently rebuilding and coming out of the crisis.

As of May 2023, the country is welcoming back tourists from all over the globe including Americans to rebuild their tourism industry that once was 12% of the nation’s GDP and 11% of emplyoment.

As I wandered the streets of Damascus – I met tourists from Czech, Greece, Italy, China, Germany, and Russia. Tourists are just starting to come back to Syria after the war – the day before I arrived, there was a delegation of 50 Polish tourists visiting Damascus. It’s apparent that people are starting to come back to Syria and now is a great time to go.

All of the places you would visit in Syria on a tour (the cities and towns of Palmyra, Damascus, Aleppo, Homs, Busra, Lattakia, etc) are government-controlled and safe. Major highways are also controlled by the government. There are many checkpoints along major highways between cities and even inside the old city sections of Damascus manned by the Syrian Army to reinforce safety and security.

At night, I walked around both Aleppo and Damascus by myself – on a quest to find the best dollar shawarma. Besides the occasion sidewalk pothole, dark alleyways and uneven pavements, I did not run into any issues or danger. I will say – bring a good flashlight! – or use your phone flashlight. Due to the currency situation, everyone – local or foreign – carries around a significant amount of cash and it seems that there is very little to none pickpocketing/petty theft. Of course, I would not advise flashing wads of cash in public – but I think if you are planning a trip to Syria, you should already have that common sense knowledge when traveling.

Syria is very welcoming and I felt positive energy from the local people wherever I went. The negative news and media reports that depict Syria as a war zone are of a bygone era.

One thing though – be careful crossing the street. Traffic does not yield to pedestrians and if you are unfamiliar with how to navigate street traffic in this part of the world, walk behind and close to a local crossing the street and you’ll quickly learn the art. I would not suggest renting a car/driving in Syria as a foreigner- leave that to the professional drivers. Traffic laws are not followed and the driving scene in downtown cities is chaotic to say the least.

Visa Logistics

Syria requires advance visas and security clearances for all foreign visitors, this will be arranged by your tour agency/fixer as part of your tour package. Americans as of March 2023 are allowed to visit Syria again. I was one of the first American tourists in Syria after the ban was lifted.

It is impossible to visit Syria as a fully independent tourist at this time and does not seem to be possible anytime in the near future. You can have a flexible private tour though and it is not a requirement that your guide be with you at all times (e.g. I could wander Old Town Damascus on my own after the day’s program ended) but for now, a fixer is necessary to gain entry.

For Americans, the visa process will be more expensive compared to other nationalities. The price to obtain the security clearance will be added on top to your tour package. You may be asked for proof of employment, your home address, or other documents during the process from your fixer. If your visa and security clearance is approved by the government, your fixer will inform you. Usually, the process takes a couple of weeks. YAt the border, Americans must pay US $160 in US dollars cash to the border office for the visa. This is different than the cost of the security clearance Other nationalities pay varying prices for the visa at the border – ask a fellow countrymen who has been to Syria.

Tour Agencies/Guides/Fixers

If you are holding a passport from the USA, I highly – strongly – suggest that you work with Fadi (co-founder) from Golden Team (https://goldenteamsy.com/ – WhatsApp +963-933-543050) to get your visa and security clearance to visit Syria. They have the best track record with helping Americans get approved to visit Syria. Golden Team was responsible for putting together my entire tour, visa, security clearance, and itinerary in Syria – their staff are genuinely amazing talented people – from the founders, to the drivers, to the guides, to the back office. Highly recommended for sure.

If you are another nationality, Golden Team can also help you obtain the visa and security clearance. There are also a number of other Syrian tour agencies that you can find online to facilitate the process.

Arriving

Crossing the Lebanon – Syria land border from Beirut

Most tourists to Syria will fly into Beirut’s airport and be picked up by a private car and driven to Damascus via the land border. It will generally take 3 hours, however my driver did not have my visa documents printed which added a 40 minute delay to my trip. The border officials do not accept visa documents on a smartphone screen. The drive is not very scenic or eventful, and there’s a couple small rest-stops and shops along the way on the Lebanese side. Once you cross to the Syrian side, there’s nothing but Assad billboards for a good hour until you start to reach the outskirts of Damascus.

Immigration/Customs

Despite having a U.S. passport, I never faced any hostility from the Syrian immigration officers or the Syrian military at checkpoints. Each of them were welcoming and smiled at me. Of course, don’t take photos at checkpoints without permission. Customs was relatively easy – simple suitcase visual checks and you’re on your way. Your driver will handle speaking with the officers and military at each checkpoint – don’t worry about it.

Currency

Officially, you can only use the Syrian Pounds (denominations come in 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000) in Syria. It is illegal for stores or merchants to ask for payment in foreign currency, with the exceptions of hotels which are allowed to bill and collect in U.S dollars from guests. No stores or vendors asked for U.S. dollars from me and all prices were in Syrian Pounds at stores. Overall – prices are affordable in Syria with a street shawarma sandwich being US$2. I exchanged US$150 at the beginning of my trip and had extra pounds left over at the end.

On Google, the super-official exchange rate is 1 USD: 2500 SYP – this rate is never used in reality. The more common rate is the “bank rate” or the “border rate” which hovers between 1 USD to 7500 – 7800 SYP. This is the rate you would get if you exchanged US dollars at the commercial bank office of the land border after crossing from Lebanon.

On the black market in Damascus/Aleppo, you may get up to 1 USD: 9000 SYP – according to this website https://sp-today.com/en/ – Your guide can help with currency exchange needs.

Because the currency has such little value (the largest 5000 pounds denomination banknote is barely worth US$0.50) – expect to carry wads and stacks of banknotes with you everywhere. The common denominations you will encounter will be 2000 and 5000 pounds. I never encountered 50, 100, or 200 pound notes since they are worthless.

If you use a wallet, bring multiple wallets. If you use a handbag or purse, bring a larger one. Each day, I carried at least 100-200 banknotes of 2000/5000 pounds with me in order to pay for shopping or food. Locals carry a plastic bag for their money!

Credit cards are not accepted anywhere in Syria due to sanctions imposed during the war. This means, even if you see a store that displays a sign for Visa/MasterCard/American Express – they will not accept credit card. UnionPay is also not accepted, nor is the Russian Mir card. ATMs also do not work for foreign cards either. Bring all the cash you need, preferably in crisp US dollar notes. This also applies if you are visiting Lebanon as well as you will need to bring enough cash for your time in both countries. I also advise you do not log on to your online banking or PayPal while in Syria without a VPN or you will be blacklisted from those services.

Taxis/Rideshare/Local Transportation

There are plenty of taxis in Damascus and Aleppo – they are marked and can be hailed on the street. Prices are negotiated as there are no meters. Drivers do not speak English for the most part. I did hear there was a Syrian version of Uber called YallaGo! but I did not try this as I had a driver for most of my trip or I walked around myself. I did try a local public transportation bus in Damascus (accompanied by a local friend) which had no clear marked signs or routes – you should ask a local if you want to try this.

SIM Cards/Wi-Fi

There are two carriers in Syria – MTN and SyriaTel. My tour agency was able to arrange a SIM card for me via SyriaTel. I believe the process to buy your own SIM card is simple and straightforward if you bring your passport to the carrier’s office and register a SIM card to your name. I found that SyriaTel was reasonably priced, USD$10 for 20GB and the LTE speeds were decent, given it was Syria. I found no issues with coverage along major highways and cities. eSIM is not yet available in Syria.

WiFi is available at major hotels and some restaurants but speeds were poor compared to LTE. I ended up using LTE for most of my trip. You should bring a VPN with you as many Western websites are blocked if you come from a Syrian IP address. Again, do not log into your online banking from home or a PayPal account with an exposed Syrian IP address. You’ll have some explaining to do when you get home.

Sightseeing

Damascus

October War Panorama

If you’re into cool museums, military history, heavy tanks and aircraft, North Korean built installations, or all of the above, make sure you get this museum added to your itinerary. In the 1990s, North Korea built this monumental museum complex outside Damascus as a gift to the Syrian people commentating the events of the 1973 War against Israel. The museum is an official military zone and your guide will need to secure advance permission to visit it. The admission fee is nominal -a few dollars. There is an outside exhibition area of tanks, missiles, rockets, aircraft, heavy weapons, etc. Inside, there are a number of BEAUTIFUL murals painted by North Korean artists depicting Syrian history. At the top, there is a panoramic installation that displays a crucial battle in the Golan Heights in 3D panorama style. You are seated on a rotating platform as the story plays out with full narration. It’s surreal to say the least. It’s the closest Americans might get to feeling an authentic North Korea experience – for now!

Kim Il Sung Park

This is a TINY park on the outskirts of Damascus built to celebrate the friendship between Syria and North Korea. Besides the sign, there’s nothing here. The park was closed when I visited.

Al Hamidiyah Souq

The main souq of Damascus – included on every city tour. This is where you can buy souvenirs and Bakdash Ice Cream. Shops and vendors are friendly here – no aggressive sales tactics!

Sayyidah Ruqayya Shrine

This was not included on my tour itinerary but my friend Eduardo recommended it after discovering it on his own when he was in Damascus. This is a shrine/mosque that is simply incredible in architectural wonder. Standard mosque rules apply – no shoes, no visiting the prayer room, gender segregated areas, and x-ray/security checks.

Avenue Mall

Modern shopping mall on the outskirts of Damascus – nice place to visit if you want to see a local Syrian supermarket or see how the locals shop.

Umayyad Mosque

One of the oldest and largest mosques in the world, this “Great Mosque of Damascus” is a must-see and included on every tour of Damascus. It is a holy place for both Christians and Muslims as Christians view it as the burial place for John the Baptist’s head while Muslims view it as the fourth holiest site in Islam. A fascinating place to visit and photography is allowed inside. Note that dress code applies – standard mosque rules to cover up skin and hair if you are female, etc.

Hanania Church

One of the oldest Christian Churchs in the world and second oldest church in Damascus, this is an underground church that is often visited on Damascus tours. This is located near Straight Street.

Old Damascus

This is a neighborhood in Damascus where you can find cute boutique hotels, shops, and is adjacent to the Umayyad Mosque. There are also plenty of restaurants, bars, and even nightclubs here. A very lively place to be! Note the streets are narrow and cramped and vehicles are allowed to pass through.

Khan As’ad Pasha Al-Azem

This is a beautiful place to come and take photos – now a days it is a cafe where you’ll find Syrian families and youth alike enjoying tea/coffee and chit-chatting.

Central Post Office of Damascus

I mailed a few postcards here and there is a postal stamp museum on the second floor.

Al Bahsa Market For Software And Elctronical Trade

As a tech nerd, I thought this place was a blast from the past. This is where you find things from nvidia gtx graphics cards, to Thinkpads, to every pirated PC software or video game disk you can think of. If you are interested in seeing the latest in technology in Syria, a nice place to stop by.

Aleppo

Aleppo Citadel

Unfortunately closed due to damage from the 2023 Earthquake, but you can walk the exterior and take photos.

Aleppo Soap Factory (Dakka kadima)

This is one of the most famous attractions of Aleppo – here they make Aleppo soap – olive oil soap bars. It’s a very unique local creation that caught my eye. The soap is said to be good for both face and body. The factory has a large gift shop for tourists and even the largest soap bar in the world on display. Nice place to pick up gifts.

Outside the Cities:

Maloula

A small town outside Damascus on the way to Homs with the fun fact that it’s one of three places where Western Aramaic – the language of Jesus is still spoken. The other two are smaller nearby villages. Unfortunately, during the war – the main church and its original paintings and artifacts were damaged. Today, you can see the rebuilt church and meet the locals who live there. They also make local red wine – and free samples are available.

Krak Des Chevaliers
A large medieval castle that is well preserved. It was built over one thousand years ago and during the war was seized by the terrorists. Today, there’s few visitors to it and we had the castle all to ourselves the day we came.

Homs

Unfortunately, Homs was badly damaged during the war and still in the middle of rebuilding. We stopped in Homs to visit the Saint Mary Church of the Holy Belt – they have a piece of the belt wore by Mary, Mother of Jesus.

Norias of Hama

These are the famous water wheels of Hama – nice photo stop on your way from/to Damascus as you will pass through this town.

Food/Drink

These are some of my favorite picks during my trip.

Naranj Restaurant – Damascus

This is a legendary restaurant in Old Damascus – the food was excellent. I recommend ordering the “kebab karaz” which is an Aleppo specialty dish of kebab with sour cherry sauce. For dessert, they bring out a huge tray of Syrian sweets that you can help yourself. Unfortunately, you can not bring leftover sweets home. Staff do not speak English for the most part but one or two waiters speak decent English.

Darmisk Restaurant – Damascus

Fadi and Ghaidaa brought us here for our welcome lunch on the first day – they ordered a huge spread of Syrian dishes for the table and all of them were scrumptious. It’s a cute courtyard restaurant with plenty of natural light in the Old Damascus section.

Bakdash Ice Cream – Damascus

World-famous ice cream shop for Syrian ice cream covered in pistachio. It’s not your typical Western ice cream as it tastes more like a pudding/Greek Yogurt. Highly recommended to give a try – it’s inside a bustling souq.

El-Burj Restaurant (streetside shawarma stall) – Damascus

Referred to as the best shawarma in Damascus, this is a takeaway only street stand that sells lamb or chicken shawarma sandwiches. The chicken is definitely the better choice here and it goes for a little over 1 US dollar. It’s a few blocks away from the entrance to Old Town (Bab Touma).

Al Kommeh Restaurant – Aleppo

Fadi took me here when we arrived into Aleppo – I left the ordering up to him and we dined on a huge selection of meat, vegetable, and carbohydrate dishes. That being said, we spent the entire day on the road from Damascus so we were all quite hungry and there was not a single piece leftover.

Cordoba Restaurant – Aleppo

For lunch in Aleppo, Lubana took me here and we tried a number of dishes including Aleppo’s specialty – kebab karaz. Delicious and they even have an English menu!

Accommodation

Your guide will be responsible for arranging your accommodation and remitting payment to the hotel – of course, you can inform the agency of your preferences for property, room type, etc. In general, the tour agencies get a better discounted rate than what you would get if you tried to arrange hotels yourself.

Talisman Hotel – Damascus

This 5-star property in Old Damascus is famous for being the hotel of choice for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s 2009 trip to Syria. While the property still maintains a high level of service, it is beginning to show its age. The room I stayed in had significant issues with the bathroom – mainly the fact that the shower did not have 24 hours hot water and strong water pressure. A phone call to reception was necessary for them to enable the backup pump and generator. The air conditioning was also not available 24 hours a day – again a phone call to reception is required. Staff is friendly and welcoming but I felt that this property could use some infrastructural improvements to regain its heyday reputation. I noticed that this property was not as popular among travelers compared to Beit Al Wali.

Beit Al Mamlouka – Damascus

I did not stay here but my fellow travelers did – from the outside, it looks like a well kept 5-star property also in Old Damascus. I did not hear any major negative reports about this hotel.

Beit Al Wali Hotel – Damascus

This was my favorite hotel in Damascus that I stayed in. This is a 5-star property in the Old Damascus section. Their staff was very hospitable, friendly, and the rooms had everything you needed – a modern touch in an old traditional home setting. They had 24/7 hot water and electricity which was a big plus. WiFi was also available and the hotel itself, like every other hotel in Old Damascus was an architectural marvel.

Four Seasons Hotel – Damascus

One of the few standing Western hotels left in Damascus, except it is no longer managed by the Canadian Four Seasons corporation. Due to sanctions, all ties were severed in 2019 with the corporation leaving this hotel to still operate under “stolen trademarks”. I visited the hotel but did not stay here – it appears to be a standard Four Seasons property with high security measures (blast walls, checkpoints, vehicle barricades, etc). I am told that the United Nations has this hotel booked for their staff most of the time leaving only the suites available for US$1200 a night.

Sheraton – Alepo

This was built and opened only a few years before the war broke out. From the outside, it’s a beautiful property – reminds you of a castle. This used to be part of the Starwood/Sheraton family up until 2012 when sanctions came into place. During the war, this hotel was used as military barracks. After the fighting in Aleppo ended in 2016, the hotel reopened in 2018. To this day, it continues to use the Sheraton name and trademarks – without permission – similar to how the Four Seasons Damascus operates. I did not stay here but I took a tour of the property and rooms. The rooms are very much what you would expect “from a Sheraton in small town New Jersey” as I would say – even the TVs in the guestrooms are still the CRT type from when I was a child! Funny thing is – there’s a sign in the lobby promoting the “SPG Starwood” loyalty program’s introduction of flight partners – the sign is dated April 2009 and mentions that by the end of 2009, customers will have many more airline options to transfer their SPG Starwood points. Crazy blast from the past, right?

Hotel Baron – Aleppo

This is the famous hotel that dates back over a century – the Lawrence of Arabia, Agatha Christie, David Rockefeller, amongst other pop culture icons stayed here during their time in Aleppo. Murder on the Orient Express was written in this hotel. Unfortunately, due to the war and earthquake – this hotel is no longer available to stay in. The guestrooms have been gutted of all furniture and only visits to the property are possible with prior arrangement. I met the owner of the hotel – a very very kind and welcoming lady that speaks fluent English – her family inherited the hotel as it was passed down through generations. If you are interested in visiting the property for photography and souvenirs, arrange it with your local guide.

Laurus Hotel – Aleppo

I found that this was an excellent stay for value in Aleppo. The rooms are on the modern side and are equal to a Western 2.5-3 star hotel. There were no issues with the room that I could find. The hotel is located on a quiet street and appears to be recently built. The breakfast buffet is sufficient but not memorable. The room has 24/7 electricity and hot water which is a major plus – electricity shortages are common in Syria. Staff are friendly, as it is with most places in Syria.

Louis Inn – Homs

I did not stay here but I visited this hotel on my tour of Homs. It’s a brand new (built in 2022) boutique hotel that is themed after figures in Syrian history of the Emesene Dynasty. Very cute and instagram-able.