Dates Visited: February 20 -25, 2019
Introduction
Let’s face it – Bangkok has a bad reputation for the seedy red light district areas, unhealthy air pollution, heavy traffic, dirty streets, or just the general lack of nature. While some of these things may be true, there is a side to Bangkok that rises up when you look past all of these negative detractors. That is – a bustling and full-of-life Thai capital with incredible street food, glistering palaces, high-energy nightlife, cheap night markets and yes, the beautiful smell of carbon monoxide cocktails as you ride off into the sunset on the back of a GrabBike.
Arriving
Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK)
Thailand’s main international hub – full-service airlines fly to Suvarnabhumi whereas budget airlines will fly to Don Mueang airport. I flew on Emirates (amazing experience) from Hong Kong to Bangkok and as a result, I landed in Suvarnabhumi. Built in 2006, this is definitely an above average airport for Southeast Asia but again pales in comparison to Changi. It is located about 45 minutes – 1 hour outside city center by Grab (a bit farther away than Don Mueang).
Don Mueang International Airport (DMK)
If you’re flying on a budget airline, you’ll most likely fly to Don Mueang – Bangkok’s second (and older) airport. This is one of the oldest international airports in the world and the age does show. As I was not flying from here, I only got to visit the International Arrivals section as I waited for friends coming in on AirAsia. DMK almost one hundred years older than BKK is evidently not the cleanest nor the most lavish airport but does serve its purpose. It is about 30-45 minutes out of the city center (closer than BKK) and you can take a Grab to downtown.
Immigration/Customs
Thailand is visa-free for U.S. citizens and about 60 other nationalities – owing to its popularity as a tourist destination. That being said, the queue for immigration both on entry and exit to the country were very long – over an hour wait. Come early to the airport and be prepared to queue. The process itself is hassle-free, a cursory passport check, visa stamping, and you’re on your way out.
Lounges
Suvarnabhumi has over a dozen Priority Pass accessible lounges scattered throughout its concourses. However, the number one lounge as reviewed by many travel reviewers is the Oman Air First & Business Lounge in International Concourse E, and so I went there. Hot food options (mainly Thai local cuisine of curries, satay, and rice) were above average while alcoholic beverage choices were within reason of what you would expect from an airline first class lounge.
Currency
Thailand uses the Thai Baht (THB) which comes in banknotes of 20 (green, 50 (blue), 100(red), 500(purple), and 1000 (brown) Baht. A rule of thumb I used is 100 Baht is about $3 US dollars. You’ll often find yourself using the 20 50, and 100 baht notes the most with 500 and 1000 for larger transactions. Thailand, like its Southeast Asian neighbors is a cheap country by Western standards and 100 Baht is more than enough for a quality breakfast or lunch.
Currency exchanges and ATMs are available in the airport and throughout the city of Bangkok. Thailand is still predominantly cash-based so unless you are taking a Grab, shopping in a mall or dining at high-end restaurants, expect to pay cash in Thai Baht.
Taxis/Rideshare/Local Transportation
Your best friend in Thailand as in any Southeast Asian country will be the Grab app. Imagine Uber but for Southeast Asia specifically. There are some alternatives such as Gojek but I have not tried those. Grab offers GrabBike and GrabCar – GrabCar is your typical ride-share service with a driver coming to pick you up in a car whereas GrabBike is a motorbike service with you riding on the back of a motorbike – sounds scary but after your first time trying it, you’ll love it! Prices for both services are extremely cheap to Western standards (<$2USD), especially GrabBike. You can link your Visa/MasterCard to the Grab app and ride cash-less. Note that Bangkok suffers from heavy traffic (some of the worst I’ve seen and I used to live in the Bay Area).
Marked taxis are also readily available on the streets of Bangkok but cost more than Grab and you may run into price haggling/language barrier issues. They generally have meters, but make sure it is on before the ride starts. Taxis accept credit cards and cash. Much better to just use Grab in my opinion.
For a touristy experience, try a tuk-tuk although you will have to haggle the prices down from the crazy inflated prices the drivers will give you first. Unlike Siem Reap, tuk-tuk rides are not a flat price and vary by distance/destination. Unfortunately, this means the drivers have latitude to set their own prices which means you may be scammed if you’re not careful.
Bangkok’s public transportation infrastructure is also a good alternative – I rode the SkyTrain a couple times and found it to be cheap and efficient. If it is rush hour and you are not on a GrabBike, you will be better off riding the SkyTrain as Bangkok’s traffic can keep you for an hour or two. There are also local buses available but I have not tried those yet.
SIM Cards/Wi-Fi
SIM cards for Thailand can be purchased at the airport for about 100-500 baht based on the plan. These prices are heavily inflated compare to what you would pay in the city though, so do be aware of the trade-off. Hostels, hotels, major restaurants, and malls tend to have free Wi-Fi that you can use.
Sightseeing
The Grand Palace
Bangkok’s star tourist attraction – this is Thailand’s most important and prominent royal palace built in the 1800’s. Although Thailand still retains a monarchy, no member of the royal family has lived here in the last 100 years and rather The Grand Palace serves as a tourist attraction. However, it is still considered a sacred palace and temple hence a strict dress code is enforced. I can not stress this enough but there are dedicated “dress code police” to send you home or to buy appropriate clothing if you show up inadequately dressed. This generally means you must wear shirts with sleeves (no crop/tank tops, sleeveless shirts, midriff exposing), long pants/long skirts (no holes/torn pants) for both genders. Also, flip flops/sandals are not allowed so I would go with sneakers or otherwise covered shoes.
If you show up with inappropriate attire, you will not be allowed entry but there is a store where you can buy oversized T-shirts and elephant pants (at a slightly ridiculous price) to cover yourself with. For guys, go with jeans or khakis for bottoms and a t-shirt/button up/polo for tops and sneakers should be fine. Certain places within this massive complex prohibit photography so be on the look out, and note that the enforcement on the dress code and photography is strict even after you pass the initial checkpoints. I write a whole paragraph stressing this because of how many tourists I saw get turned away at the entry and from my group’s own experience. The palace is open from 8:30AM to 3:30PM. The price of entry is about 500 baht ($15USD) paid in cash only at the ticket window. When you do get inside, be prepared for a glistering palace of gold and tons of photo opportunities though!
Terminal21
A shopping mall in the design of an airport where each mall floor is a different “destination” – come here if you’re looking to kill time on a rainy day but otherwise it’s not that special. Stores are generally local brands or chains but nothing really stood out to me. Cash and credit cards accepted.
Emporium and EmQuartier
This is a more bougie shopping mall with famous brands such as Louis Vuitton and Burberry. If you’re interested in high-end shopping, this would be where you would go. There’s some nice balloon art sculptures on the roof top though that look nice for Instagram posts.
CentralWorld
Wikipedia told me this is the 11th largest shopping complex in the world. In the heart of Bangkok, this along with its neighbors MBK Center, Siam Paragon and Platinum Fashion Mall make up the heart of shopping in Bangkok. This is also where 5-star hotel chains are such as the Intercontinental Bangkok. CentralWorld is as central as you can get with multiple BTS lines running in the area. There’s an outdoor food market when I visited that sold fresh coconut water and durians among other goods. Stores inside the malls are mainly international brands and again, nothing to write home about. Cash and credit cards accepted.
Khaosan Road
If Saigon has Pham Ngu Lao/Bui Vien, Hong Kong has Chungking Mansions, Siem Reap has Pub Street, and Hanoi has the Old French Quarter, then Bangkok has Khaosan Road. Well, actually Khaosan Road probably came first.
Khaosan Road is a famous road that serves as the central hub of backpackers in Southeast Asia – filled with dirt-cheap hostels, currency exchanges, travel agencies, vendors of illegal goods, services, and even documents – Khaosan Road has it all. You can find anything here from fake diplomas and driver licenses to fried scorpions and foot massages and of course bars and nightclubs catering to a predominantly foreigner crowd. At night, this turns into a large night market with all of the works. I would be cautious around here though – quite a few sketchy characters but to experience the true Southeast Asia backpacking life, come here.
Talad Rot Fai Train Night Market Ratchada
One of the most crowded and cheapest night markets I’ve seen during my time in Asia and the group favorite in Thailand by far. While Taipei’s Raohe and Shilin definitely take the prize for best Asian night market food, Rot Fai has dirt-cheap stalls that stretch kilometers and kilometers selling everything from clothes, electronics, giant scorpions, and delicious Thai street food. Make sure you don’t lose your friends in the massive crowd and be prepared to spend at least 3 to 5 hours here to see it all and eat it all. Opens around sunset and goes on to past midnight. The closest bathrooms are in the Esplanade shopping mall next to the market. Cash only and my culinary favorites include fresh coconut water, meat skewers, fish cakes, and spring rolls. Fastest way to get here is either GrabBike or train to Thailand Cultural Center Station.
Chatuchak Weekend Market
My second favorite market in Bangkok, this one is only open during the weekends and feels much larger than the train night market (above). More space and less crowded so definitely come here during the weekends (before sunset). The mango sticky rice was delicious and a memorable bite from this market. Cash only.
Wildlife Friends Foundation
WFF is a wildlife refuge 3 hours outside Bangkok home to many animals including elephants! This is a much more ethical way of interacting with elephants and their program includes a full morning of learning about various animals in the shelter, animal cruelty (including the elephant riding trade) and wildlife poaching in Thailand – and finally culminates in an interactive experience of you showering and feeding the elephants in the afternoon. The experience is about $50USD a person which does include lunch but not transportation – worth every penny and you’re supporting a great cause. Bring mosquito repellent as this is essentially rural Thailand. Book your experience online at their website, cash only paid directly on-site after the day is over.
Hua Hin Cab
This is an excellent transportation service provider in the Bangkok area – if you need a car and driver for the day to travel long distances, they have vans that can fit 8 people. We used them to get to Wildlife Friends and they were on-time, friendly and cost effective. They also will take you to Hua Hin’s one of the beach towns near Bangkok if you’re looking to visit a Thai beach. Cash only, paid directly to the driver.
Food/Drink
Thip Samai
As of now, it’s been over a year since my Bangkok journey. Yet, some days I will wake up and reminiscent deeply of the plate of pad thai I ate at Thip Samai.
World-famous as the best pad thai in Bangkok, if not Thailand, and even the world – this crazy-popular establishment has lines out the door well before opening time of 5:00PM. To experience the Thip Samai pad thai, come early around 4:30PM and get in line. When doors open, your party should be all in attendance to be promptly seated. Order the original (#4) pad thai with fresh deep-sea prawns wrapped in egg for the full experience – and it’s only 120 baht per plate. If you’re like me, you’re used to the Western pad thai – Thip Samai does it their way and wraps the noodles in a thin egg omelette like fashion with two fresh prawns on top. When I broke open the egg and took a bite into the noodles, it was a life-defining moment.
I promptly ordered a portion to-go for later that night. There are vegetarian options on the menu as well and I hear the fresh orange juice is pretty good. For reference, Thip Samai’s original pad thai dish ranks in top ten best things I’ve ever ate in the world. Go here, now.
Bangrak Food Center
We found this place by chance after a hot and sweaty morning at the Grand Palace. It’s a food court/hawker center with many different Thai, Chinese and Western food options. I enjoyed a delicious green curry and pineapple fried rice here and the vendors do speak limited English. Come here for lunch and enjoy cheap authentic Thai cuisine. Cash only.
Kuay Teow Khae -Street Noodle Soup
This street-side noodle cart in Silom district was recommended by Mark Wiens and Drew Binsky and there’s a great video on it here. It can be hard to find this establishment so if you need help – look up “The Convento Boutique Apartment Bangkok” on Google Maps and across the street from it will be the noodle cart. The dry noodles with the crispy pork belly, and all of the toppings for 60 baht can’t be beat though. Come for breakfast or before the lunch hour to avoid waiting. Don’t expect fancy air conditioning, normal chairs, or waiter service here. This is a very local place – eat outdoors in the Bangkok humidity on low plastic stools at metal tables and of course, cash only
Pad Thai Ekkamai
Where in the world can you find pad thai 24 hours/7 days a week? Ekkamai, Bangkok. After my friends got in at 2:00AM due to AirAsia delays and hella long immigration lines, our first stop was to get some food. Pad Thai Ekkamai dishes out quality pad thai in the wee hours of the night in a hole-in-the-wall joint. I would rank this second to Thip Samai. Cash only.
Krua Apsorn
A Michelin guide recommended restaurant, come here for the famous crab omelette and some delicious Thai curry. The menu has all of your classic curries, noodles, seafood, meat, and soup. The rice even comes n the shape of a heart. The restaurant has multiple locations around the city but the original is in the Dusit District along Samsen Road. There are picture menus and English menus available. Cash only.
Chibi Chibi Cafe
To celebrate a friend’s birthday, we got brunch at this cute Instagram-worthy and super cozy cafe. There’s indoor and outdoor seating but come early for indoor seating as it was completely occupied by the time we arrived. This is a cool little space to work in and they offer free WiFi. Cash only.
7-Eleven
If you think Thai 7-Elevens look anything remotely to sad American 7-Elevens, you’re wrong. Thai 7-Elevens are 7-Elevens on steroids and rank amongst Taiwanese and Hong Kong 7-Eleven’s for the wide array of products sold and food options available. A good place to pick up drinks, snacks and mosquito repellent to start your day. Cash and Visa credit cards accepted.
Raan Jay Fai
This is a famous Michelin starred joint in Bangkok serving their famous crab omelet. It was closed when I was in Bangkok but definitely on the top of my to-eat list next time I’m in town. I hear waits can top 2-4 hours and the omelet is very expensive (1000 baht/$30USD) but word on the street is that it is well worth it. Have a try and let me know how it is.
Route66 Nightclub
This is a large and popular nightclub the group went to in Bangkok with multiple rooms for EDM, Hip-Hop, local Thai bands, and complimentary drink upon entry and unlimited salty popcorn. Route66 is probably the largest and most impressive nightclub complex I’ve seen. Cover is 300 baht and additional drinks are 200-300 baht each. Bring your passport/ID and the age minimum is 20 years old – seems to be enforced. Cash only.
Accommodation
Vann Bangkok Hostel
This is a very clean and neatly kept hostel with individual rooms and a large group room with 8 beds in bunk bed format – perfect for large families traveling or friends. My group rented the entire 4th floor which had 8 beds and 2 private bathrooms all to ourselves. The hostel is extremely clean and well designed with electronic door locks as well. The owner is very nice and runs a cafe inside the hostel during the day-time. The location is away from the city center but easily accessible by Grab.